Finding “Stars Hollow” in a tucked away Mumbai street – A ‘Gilmore Girls’ x Fall special

Before the festive season begins in full swing, and the Christmas spirit takes over our imagination in the wee hours of early December, there’s a small, but significant season that deserves a special mention – Fall (October – November in India).

This is a time when the horrid Mumbai heat takes a breather, goes on vacay, leaving us carefree enough to marvel at the trees without squinting our eyes, walk without umbrellas or other protective gear, and even say “hello” to random strangers because we’re all in a good mood – courtesy a caressing breeze that made us smile.

It’s also a time when Starbucks cosplays the Autumnal hues in its orange decor and cups, serving its ‘signature Fall drink’ – Pumpkin Spiced Latte; the most-awaited drink by patrons who can taste the entire season in their first sip. A cinnamon-infused drink, it holds magical powers that directly transports the drinker far far away from wherever they stay, to a place where the “Spirit of Fall” permanently resides – the fictional (but very real) town of Stars Hollow from the iconic and timeless show Gilmore Girls.

The fictional town of Stars Hollow from Gilmore Girls

An idyllic town in Connecticut, Stars Hollow seems like a place anyone who’s seen the show would love to move to. What’s not to love? A diner (Luke’s Diner) that serves great coffee, pancakes, burgers, chilli fries, and muffins, among other things. A supermarket right across the street from the diner, Doose’s Market looks like the kind of place that has everything under the Sun for all your household needs – fresh produce and fruits that are better than sex (Ms. Patty’s words not mine), an aisle where you can have your ‘perfect’ first kiss, tuck for your ‘girls movie nights’, and a cute bag boy to stare at. Take a few steps further, and one comes across Mrs. Kim’s antique shop where everything is “half off!”

Doose’s Market, right opposite Luke’s Diner

There are carriages being pulled around the town’s roundabout, local festivals celebrated and traditions being upheld (remember the knitathon episode?), large trees decorated with fairy lights all year round, pumpkin patches everywhere you look, kids dressing up as leaves and branches dancing to Ms. Patty’s tunes, people walking without the fear of being run over by speeding vehicles, and a communal feeling that says ‘everyone here knows everyone.’ And most importantly, no one seems to be in a rush!

A dream town indeed.

But, however much we want, Stars Hollow remains a place permanently captured on screen, rendering us to forever live this feeling vicariously, through repeat viewings of Gilmore Girls – which according to a survey peaks in its viewship ratings every year, during, guess when – Fall!

Seems like everyone wants to feel the feeling of fall, regardless of where they live. But, what if Wander Woman were to tell you, dear reader, that you can find this feeling right here, in Mumbai? All you need is a ticket to Versova Metro Station.

The al fresco area outside Versova Starbucks

Take the ‘Starbucks side’ exit from the station, and you see a wide walkway/pavement, lined with cafes, salons (humans and pets both), stores, and pubs. Enter Starbucks and order a Pumpkin Spiced Latte in a to-go cup (a no-brainer). Now, with the autumn wind in your hair, a cup of fall in your hand, you’re all set to experience Stars Hollow, in Mumbai.

The walkway isn’t too long, but the walk feels longer because of no crowd, no scooters on pavements (thank heavens), and people dining al fresco outside cafes – Starbucks, Bombay Brioche, and the newly opened pizza place Lil’ Gamby. The heady aroma of coffee in the air adds a spring to your step, as you walk. A little further, a Costa Coffee is thrown in the mix to make things interesting. And when one is very lucky, they can have a celebrity sighting just by looking through the huge glass doors of Lemon, a salon frequented by many actors. Occasionally, you can meet the cutest dogs being walked here, labradors, golden retrivers, shih tzus alike, all being taken to their paradise – Heads Up for Tales. And if you’re here in the evening and fancy a brewed beer and some juicy chicken wings, there’s always Berliner Bar for that.

A walkway to savour, being savoured

Having sipped half your latte, and taken a walk here, it’s time to go across the road, to a tucked away street, where traffic slows down, and makes way for the Stars Hollow of your imagination to take form and shape. Welcome to ‘Bon Bon road.’

A two-way lane with a shrub-lined crossing in the middle, it’s the most quiet part of a suburb where one can breathe a little. Lacking in the overzealous Mumbai crowd, this part of the city has old residential buildings with residents living here from the day their building’s foundation stone was laid. Much of the crowd is older, settled people, whose entire living needs are met merely by walking on this very road! There are well-bred youngsters too, who don’t shout while riding their motorcycles, but quietly go about their day. Slow, idyllic, and lined with stores for all possible needs – it’s where Stars Hollow comes to life.

The empty streets of Bon Bon road

To meet your walking requirements, there’s Bon Bon, a shoe store right at the beggining of the street. It’s where the lane also gets its name from (creative right?). There’s a mattress shop, followed by a few eyewear shops, with a few clothes store in the middle. A tailor sits with his machine right on the pavement, for your emergency alteration needs. And then, as you walk further, you find Nothing But Chicken; a place frequented by gym buddies post their workout session for their “protein intake.” And if you’re in the mood for a haircut, ‘Geet Salon’ will see right to it. A ginger cat named Mao who’s often seen sprawled outside this salon will remind you of Cinnamon from Gilmore Girls. Jewellery shops and more tailor shops follow, with a newly opened ice cream parlour to break their streak. And then, there’s Rex General Store, a stuffy, two-aisle shop which houses everything from a lint roller, gummy bears, pringles, and marshmallows for your perfect movie night. There’s always one too many people there than the shop can hold, mostly staff, which gives it quite a quirky vibe.

The marshmallows section at Rex General Store

A flower shop springs out of nowhere, with Mr. Manoj at its helm. A cheerful man, he sells fragrance-free flowers with a nonchalance that’s rare. No wonder Rajnigandha is his bestseller! Pick one, and keep walking. Carts laden with fruits/vegetables come alive, on either side of the road, and the fruit sellers are only beginning to show their fresh produce. Spoit for choice, the residents have many shops to find the perfectly shaped melon, or the ripest avocado. There’s Mr. Omkar, a shy guy who wouldn’t even look you in the eye unless necessary, and would rather speak to his fruits. A few steps further, there’s a guy named Subhash just selling bananas. Talk about conviction in his fruit!

Mr. Manoj treating his bestseller Rajnigandha with care

Ah, we’re at the end of the street. But there’s still the one across the lane! Time to cross the road. But take a moment to look up. Tall trees in various shades of green loom large on the street, making it look like a protected space, away from the city’s bustle. The fallen autumn leaves are being swept away by men with broom sticks that could double up as a ‘Quidditch broom.’

The first shop that attracts everyone is Gurukrupa Stores – a one-stop-shop for all your festive needs. It changes hues like a chameloen according to the festival; its tables and display aisles burgeoning with diyas, lamps, and lights during Diwali. Come fall, it’s seen wearing Santa’s attire and is the epitome of festive cheer in the block. You can’t resist going inside, and may come out with at least one Christmas cup! It’s time for some dessert now, isn’t it? Look no further than the next few shops; Hangout Cakes, Ribbons & Balloons, Monginis – the source of all birthday cakes in the area. And if you’re in a savoury mood, Pepper Pinch’s shawarmas pack a decent punch.

The Christmas vibe at Gurukrupa already in full bloom

But it’s the New Grand Stores that attracts most people. The closest in terms of resembling the Doose’s Market of Stars Hollow, it has a toilet paper aisle tailor-made for that ‘perfect kiss.’ Despite being a small space, its cosy vibe keeps people from leaving and they keep circling around – going from the pasta aisle, to the snacks aisle, and onto the chocolates section – till the owner starts giving them dirty looks for just holdling a pack of cup noodle in hands. And yet, one can waste as much time here as one wants. And then some, by entering the Gujju/Sindhi snack shop Satgurus – an entire shop dedicated to your snack needs with various types of khakhras (methi, jeera ones are most popular), chivdas, nanchni chips, makhanas, homemade achaars and chocolates. Its a bottomless pit of snack station that, if you’re anything like Lorelai or Rory Gilmore, will keep you coming back for more.

The noodle aisle at New Grand Stores

With your latte’s last drops remaining, and the frangrant Rajnigandha still filling up the air around you, life comes full circle as you stand facing Starbucks across the road, having taken a tour of Stars Hollow during fall season, on a Mumbai street.

And who knows, if one is attentive enough, they can find their own Stars Hollow right on their street. One only needs to look for it!

The song “Welcome to my little corner of the world…” plays in background.